build a revolver

Build A Revolver - A few times a year I get the bug to do something. I've made guns, knives, you name it—anything cool that I can make with hand tools, I might try. So the beginning of the relationship became a whole circle project. I decided to customize the revolver using some of the "tests" I did on the BullShooters blog. Do-it-yourself projects leave only the high-tech elements to the experts. The rest was done with hand tools in my backyard shed.

I've always preferred big-bore, single-action revolvers, not the prominent "black" rifles that swept the West, but Keith No. 5 guns perfected by people like John Linbaugh and Hamilton Bowen. . I have a few of these spinners, but I've never made one myself.

Build A Revolver

This loop should be the main hunting arm, not the side used for looping opportunities. Therefore the size is not limited. I chose a Ruger Bisley with a 7½-inch barrel as my base rifle and began making some functional and aesthetic modifications to suit my taste. I'll go through the process from start to finish, and remember, I'm not just a hobbyist, I'm a beginner when it comes to most things.

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Before making the nails, I wanted to start with a flat work surface. Using a file and some marker fluid, I drew out the high points from the bracket frame.

Starting with a pistol-sized Turkish walnut from a Lux nut, I traced the factory handle as a guide.

I used a friend's bandsaw to cut them down to rough outer dimensions before working with the teeth and files. Using the jig tools, I got the blank as close to the top of the frame as possible, then drilled out the blanks and installed the handle and Brownells nose.

Now that the grips are secure, it's time to shape them. An old gunsmith once said, "To make a stock, you remove a different piece of wood than a gun stock." Same here, document them until you get a feel for them through a lot of trial and error.

Best Revolvers For Hunters And Personal Protection

Once the shape is correct, it's time to sand the document label. I started with a very coarse 80 grit and went up to 400 before starting the finishing process. Bonding the wood to the metal ensures that you don't burr any edges. I wasn't worried about the bruises because I planned on making a full recovery for Beasley.

After sandblasting the handle, I finished sealing the nuts using Pro Custom Oil. This product is very user friendly and the brightness level can be adjusted according to your taste.

While the final stage of the grip was cured, I disassembled the entire circuit of metalworking. Bisley hand tools are good enough to detail the strap, but removing the barrel requires some special equipment to do it right. Brownells built mine with a Power Custom Frame Block that secures the spinning power supply. They also provided a barrel lock and a set of barrel mounts. Since everything is secure, the barrel is simply removed from the frame. If you don't have a solid advantage, you can actually use two barreled rods to accomplish the same task.

The factory finish looked good on my Bisley, but I wanted something more unique. I removed all of the factory using a chemical blue cleaner. Then, using an EDM stone and fine sandpaper, I removed all of the small tool marks and created a flat, chamfered surface around the entire spindle—finally polished to 600 grit.

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Brown Bear is not only considered the best of tools, it's the finishing touch that the hobbyist can accomplish with minimal equipment. After carefully removing all the oil and grease components, I painted the steel in Mount Laurel's rust blue solution until a nice layer of rust formed. The parts then went into a small tank of boiling water on my grill to turn the grill into black oxide. After removing the excess with a wire wheel, the process is repeated until the color is correct. While this was going on, I sent the frame, hammer and tailgate to Turnbull Mfg. For container color. Both the blue and the color look fantastic.

There are certain tasks I just don't feel comfortable dealing with - I avoid anything related to drives, tides and safety. The potential consequences of an unsafe gun are too great not to seek professional help. I uploaded all the pieces and enlisted the help of John Gallagher, an Alabama gunsmith. John is a trained gunsmith from Trinidad who has spent decades building countless single-action revolvers. John Rogers did the work and also installed a belt mount locked cylinder base case and a "free spin" rack. John also put the whole package together and arranged the preview time accordingly. Sir John, his work is first rate and I highly recommend him.

This time we've got a unique drivetrain, an amazing rotary engine, and some upgraded features, including a set of rings that fit my wrist. The only thing that needs to be done is to see that the internal parameters are correct. To ensure great accuracy, the revolver must grip the shaft as it travels through the barrel. This means that the cone, barrel, and muzzle must get progressively smaller (or at least the same size) as you go.

Many revolvers have a "threaded joint" in the small barrel and barrel that rotates the shaft to its minimum diameter, compromising accuracy. Bearings can be easily measured by pushing a large shaft and the shaft must pass with minimum resistance. In order to detect thread collisions, a polished soft lead is pushed through the mouth of the nozzle - the obstructions along the way are obvious. This lathe exhibits about 10015 inches of thread pitch, as anything more than .001 inch usually causes accuracy issues that need to be addressed.

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Unless you have a toilet, a special repairman, and a tailor's throat cutting knowledge, the only way I know of to deal with barrel shortening is with a fireboard. The process involves inserting a friction compound into a soft lead shaft. It's time-consuming and messy, but it works. After 80 rounds, the subject shock was minimal and I thought about testing it seriously.

It's finally time to put some full power through this circuit breaker and see how it works. As much as I like the look of this Beasley, the hunt wasn't a beauty contest - it had to be shot. I have a good selection of factory ammo and I also have some LFNGC 300 grain LBT style Beartooth ammo loaded with 21 grains of WW-296 and Federal Magnum pistol primers, and a moderate hot load can give me a home. Increase speed.

The first few groups were fired with standard velocity factory ammo, nothing to write home about. My experience with the .45 Colt is that it works best with maximum loads and heavy bullets. My trunks showed some real promise of accuracy, but they weren't the star of the show. DoubleTap Ammo's 365-grain WFNGC+P load averaged 1,104 fps and fired a five-shot 1-inch group at 25 yards with proper trigger management.

This iron sight revolver with a factory barrel and conventional shaft has amazing accuracy. Veral Smith at LBT cut me a .453-inch 300-grain WFNGC template specifically for this round. This shot is the fastest, and I think we can do better.

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